Home Articles Page David@DavidReedSmith.com
If you would like to be notified when I post a new article, send me an email. I'll only use the list for that purpose, and I'll mail blind cc so your address won't be any the worse for spam.
If you have comments, questions, or suggestions I'd enjoy hearing from you. Just send me an email. My address is David@DavidReedSmith.com. If it's a suggestion I'd be happy to post it along with this article. Let me know if you would like your email address posted as part of the attribution, or limited to only name, or only first name, etc.
This article was published in the June 2013 (#43) edition of Woodturning Design.
The Scissor Holster.
Introduction: I
imagine most of us, whether at a brain storming session, a design class, or a
demo, have been urged to "think outside the box".
Even ignoring the self-contradictory phrasing of exhorting creativity in
a thoroughly banal way, I don't find this to be especially helpful advice.
It's sort of like telling you not to think about elephants.
The subconscious usually doesn't work on demand.
What you need instead is a bigger box.
The more methods and techniques you
know, the more ways you can combine them.
Theoretically the increase is exponential.
One technique you can use to make your box bigger is the Lost Wood
Process, where part of a turning is "lost" either by cutting away, or by using a
temporary waste block. However, the
examples of this process that I've seen are rather daunting for a first time
try--how many of us will risk all the work in turning a hollow vessel with a
first time technique? This article
is about making a scissor holster which is hopefully a much less risky, baby
steps if you prefer, introduction to the lost wood process.
A customer (let's call her Stephanie)
who bought one of my needle cases, asked me if I could make a holder for
embroidery scissors that she could hang around her neck.
Even sent me a couple of links with examples.
But a way to turn a scissor holster without unnecessary bulk wasn't
immediately evident, as scissors are so much wide than they are thick.
But as I had just been using the lost wood process to make a sphere into
a fish body, within a day or so I had the idea of using the lost wood process to
get rid of unnecessary bulk and add design interest as well.
Briefly, a blank is glued up of two
prime wood pieces and a waste wood block using temporary glue joints.
The resulting blank is mounted between centers and a tenon turned for
chuck mounting, then step drilled to make a recess.
The drilled blank is then mounted on a mandrel and turned.
The temporary joints are then separated, a magnet added to hold the
scissors in, and the prime pieces glued permanently together.
Lastly eyelets are made and glued into the holster.
Preparing the Turning Blank:
To start the scissor holster, first prepare the turning blank.
You'll need a waste block that is 1-1/2" wide, 3-1/2" long, and .4"
thick. The .4" is a fairly critical
dimension. The mating surfaces
should be smooth--band sawn isn't good enough.
The prime pieces should be 1-1/2"
wide, 3-1/2" long and 1/2" thick.
The inside surface should be smooth like the waste block.
In the pictures I'm using some laminated stock made of Maple, Cherry and
Walnut, then cut on a 15 degree angle.
It would be sensible to try the project first with solid wood such as
maple--in fact that's what I did.
The blanks are shown in Fig01.
Fig01:
The pieces that will make up the turning blank.
The prime pieces will be glued to the
waste block with temporary joints.
In the pictures I'm using blue masking tape and Titebond glue because cleaning
up the temporary joint is nearly effortless.
If you would rather, use a traditional paper joint with kraft paper and
glue. I suggest you use a
non-waterproof wood glue to make the joint cleanup a little less of a hassle.
Put blue masking tape on the mating surfaces of the pieces
as in Fig02, and remove some of the coating of the tape with 180 grit or
so abrasive to get better glue adhesion.
Spread a thin layer of wood glue on one surface of each of the mating
pair and then clamp the blank together until the glue cures as in Fig03.
Be at least a little fussy about alignment, particularly if you try the
laminated stock.
Fig02:
The setup for gluing the temporary joints.
Fig03:
Clamping the temporary joints.
After the glue has cured, remove the
clamps. Trim the end of the blank on
the table saw--this will let you clearly see the extent of the waste block and
find its center more accurately.
Locate the center of the waste block at end of the blank and make a small dimple
at the center as in Fig04.
Fig04:
After trimming the blank and locating the centers.
Drilling the Recess:
Mount the blank between centers on the lathe using cup centers at both headstock
and tailstock as shown in Fig05. Cup
centers grip the whole blank end instead of trying to pry the temporary joints
apart. I'm using a homemade safety
drive in a 4-jawed chuck because I'll want to use the chuck for the next step.
The starting dimples should let you find the centers easily.
Turn the blank round and with a tenon at one end as in Fig06.
It's prudent to cut gently so as to not put the strength of your
temporary joints to the test.
Fig05:
The blank mounted between cup centers.
Fig06:
After rounding the blank and cutting a tenon at one end.
Mount the blank in a 4-jawed chuck as
in Fig07 and mount a combined drill and countersink or other centering drill in
a drill chuck in the tailstock. The
rigid, non-deflecting combined drill and countersink will let you start a true
hole. Start the lathe at a slow to
moderate speed and advance the tailstock ram until it starts to cut.
Pull the ram back and check to make sure the hole is centered
thickness-wise in the waste block.
Adjust the mounting in the 4-jawed chuck if necessary, as you want the hole to
really be centered. The combined drill and countersink is rigid enough to create
a new center if required.
Fig07:
Starting the hole with a combined drill and countersink.
Now mount a 3/4" drill in the drill
chuck. Drill 1" deep with the 3/4"
drill as in Fig08. Mount a 5/8"
drill in the drill chuck and drill 3” deep as in Fig09 (measured from the front of
the blank). Step drilling is
necessary to leave sufficient wall thickness to hold the magnet.
After drilling remove the blank from the 4-jawed chuck.
Fig08:
Drilling with a 3/4" drill.
Fig09:
Finishing the recess with a 5/8" drill.
Turning on a Mandrel:
Mount a piece of hardwood
1" square and 4-1/2" long between centers and turn a 3/4" Diameter x 1"
tenon on one end. Mount the tenon in
your 4-jawed or collet chuck and turn a mandrel to fit the drilled scissor
holster blank. There should be a
full width collar at the chuck end, 1-1/4" of 3/4" diameter next to the collar,
and 2” of 5/8"
diameter at the end away from the
chuck. Now test the fit of the
drilled blank on the mandrel.
Unfortunately a slightly oversize mandrel exerts a whole lot of leverage to pry
the temporary joint apart. Over come
this by clamping across the temporary joint while trying the fit as in Fig11.
If you remove too much off the mandrel you can always shim it back with a
little (blue) tape. Slide the blank
on to the mandrel and pin it in place with the tailstock as in Fig12.
Fig10: The turned mandrel.
Fig11:
Testing the fit of the mandrel with a clamp backing up the temporary
joint.
Fig12:
The blank mounted on the mandrel.
Down near the tailstock, establish
the minimum diameter (so you can mount the magnet) of 1-1/8" with a parting tool
as in Fig13. Turn gently, as the
temporary glue joint is getting narrow.
Use a spindle roughing gouge to even out the surface of the blank, then
start turning the inboard end of the blank.
Use a skew (or a spindle gouge if you prefer) to turn a slightly rounded
face on the end of the blank. Then
turn a 1/8" cove near the lip with a mini-cove tool (see
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/MiniCoveTool/MiniCoveTool.htm or the Fall 2005 Woodturning Design) as in
Fig14.
Fig13:
Set the minimum diameter of 1-1/8".
Fig14:
Turn the face of the blank and a mini-cove.
Now reduce most of the blank to the
minimum diameter with a spindle roughing gouge, turning gently.
If you do start to hear the ominous tick-tick-tick of a temporary joint
preparing to fly apart, reinforce one end with tape and turn the other end.
Then swap the tape to the turned end and finish turning the blank.
Use a spindle gouge to turn the transition between the end near the cove
and the minimum diameter. Smooth out
the rest of the blank with a skew.
The result is shown in Fig15. Note
that if you use a laminated blank like mine you should only cut with the skew
from left to right. Use a skew or
spindle gouge to round over the bottom end of the blank.
Reduce the nub to less than the waste block diameter as in Fig16.
Fig15:
After smoothing the body of the blank with a skew (or spindle gouge).
Fig16:
After rounding over the bottom and reducing the nub diameter.
Sand the blank with progressively
finer grits as in Fig17. If you
prefer to finish the blank with a friction polish you can do that now, as in
Fig18, as the nub will disappear when the waste block is removed.
Remove the blank from the mandrel.
Fig17: After sanding.
Fig18:
After polishing.
The Non-Lathe Details:
Split
apart the temporary joints using a putty knife or utility knife as in Fig19.
Then clean up the joints. If
you used blue tape just peel it off.
Wipe with mineral spirits and a rag if there seems to be any adhesive residue.
If you used a more traditional paper joint dampen the paper and then
scrape it off. You might try putting
a cabinet scraper style hook on a utility knife blade as in Fig20 where I'm
using hardened steel (screw driver shaft) to burnish a hook.
Burnish the hook so that it will scrape
when the knife is drawn towards you--this way you can hold the blank in your
left hand, brace your right thumb on the end of the blank and squeeze your right
hand to draw the scraper along the blank.
Fig21 shows the blank halves after removing the temporary joint.
Fig19:
After splitting the temporary joints apart.
Fig20:
Burnishing a hook on a utility knife blade to scrape off paper joint
residue.
Fig21:
The cleaned blank halves.
Mark one of the halves for installing
a magne as in Fig22. Lay the
scissors on the blank half as far down as it will go and mark a position about
3/8" to 1/2" from the tip of the scissors.
Then clamp a V-block to your drill press table centered on a 1/4"
Forstner bit. Support the blank half
in the V-block and drill down slightly more than the thickness of your magnet as
you don't want the tips to actually hit the magnet.
Fig22:
Marking the location of the magnet.
Fig23:
Drilling a recess for the magnet.
To glue the magnet in place, put a
drop of CA glue on a piece of blue tape (to protect your work surface).
Put the magnet on the end of a steel rod (I'm using the hex key for
changing jaws on my Oneway Stronghold chuck), dip or roll the magnet in the
glue, and insert into the recess.
Fig24 shows the set-up for this.
Fig24:
The set-up for gluing in the magnet.
The blank halves are now ready to be
glued together. Spread a thin coat
of wood glue on one half and clamp together as in Fig25.
It's a nest of clamps because clamping parallel to the joint keeps the
halves lined up while the usual perpendicular clamps bring the halves together.
Remove the clamps after the glue cures.
You may wish to sand the edges lightly by hand or with a drum sander to
remove sharp or slightly mis-aligned edges.
You can touch up the finish after sanding by rubbing briskly with a rag
dampened with your friction polish.
Fig25:
Clamping the blank halves together.
Just as a gun holster needs belt
loops to be hung from a belt, a scissor holster needs a way to be hung from a
necklace (or chatelaine is you're feeling fancy).
Make two eyelets from 2" long pieces of
20 gauge brass wire. Clamp
the end in a vise. Bend a 0.15" or
so diameter metal rod into an L shape and chuck up the L in your drill.
Put the other end of the L in the clamped loop of wire and turn on the
drill to wind the wire into a spiral with a circle at the end as in Fig26.
Remove the eyelet from the vise and repeat to make another.
Trim both to the same length with diagonal pliers.
Fig26:
Making an eyelet from brass wire.
On scrap wood, make a few tests to
determine what drill size gives you a good fit.
Now make a starter dimple for the drill as in Fig27.
I used a homemade tool, seen in Fig27.
I use the same tool when mounting spindle stock between centers. It is
made from a 2-1/2" masonry nail mounted in a handle and sharpened.
Push in and twist at the same time at the bottom of the mini-cove where
the halves meet.
Fig27:
Starting the drill holes.
Using the starting holes, drill into
the case. The inside of the case
comes to a hard to see inside point, so don't worry too much about drilling
through. Now glue the eyelets in by
dipping the ends in CA glue and inserting into the holes.
The inside isn't completely invisible so don't insert the wire into the
recess. Fig28 shows the set-up for
gluing in the eyelets. Fig29 shows
the completed Scissor Holster.
Fig28:
The set-up for gluing in the eyelets.
Fig29:
The completed Scissor Holster.
Materials:
3-1/2” embroider scissors.
For a few, just go to JoAnn’s or the like.
If you want a bunch, try buying wholesale from
www.lacis.com
1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x .4” waste block
2 each 1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x
½” prime wood
20 gauge brass wire
Tape
Glue
Finish
Abrasives
Tools:
Combination drill and countersink
3/4” drill
5/8” drill
4-jawed chuck
Drill chuck
Cup drive center
Cup tailstock center
Spindle roughing gouge
Skew and/or spindle gouge
Mini-cove tool
Electric drill
Vise
Drill to match eyelet diameter
Author:
David Reed Smith spends probably too much time trying to make his technique box
bigger in his basement in Hampstead, Maryland.
This article, along with many others, will be available at
www.DavidReedSmith.com.
He welcomes comments and questions at
David@DavidReedSmith.com.
The author thinking outside the box. Or is it just a bigger box?